Everything You Need To Know To Find The Best hydrophobic fumed silica

13 May.,2024

 

How to Choose Between Hydrophilic and Hydrophobic ...

In the realm of nanomaterials, fumed silica emerges as a versatile substance with properties that can be tailored for various applications. One significant distinction lies in its hydrophilic and hydrophobic attributes. Understanding the factors influencing the selection between these two forms of fumed silica is paramount for optimizing product performance. Let’s delve into the world of fumed silica and explore the key considerations that shape this choice.

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The Genesis of Fumed Silica

Fumed silica comes into being through a high-temperature hydrolysis process involving silicon halides in a hydrogen-oxygen flame. The resultant nanoscale amorphous powder exhibits unique characteristics that find utility across diverse industries.

What Are The Materials And Processes Used To Manufacture Fumed Silica?

Fumed silica, or pyrogenic silica, colloidal silicon dioxide, is an amorphous white inorganic powder that has high specific surface area, nano-scale primary particle size and a relatively high (among silica…

Hydrophilic Fumed Silica: Properties and Applications

Hydrophilic fumed silica is characterized by surface hydroxyl groups that readily interact with water molecules, endowing it with water-attracting qualities. This type of fumed silica smoothly wets surfaces and disperses within water-based systems. It’s particularly suited for non-polar or low-polarity products.

Applications of hydrophilic fumed silica extend to non-polar systems such as methyl siloxanes, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and various hydrocarbons. It also finds a place in low-polarity systems like MS Polymers and STP-E, contributing to stability and dispersion.

Hydrophobic Fumed Silica: A Shift in Properties

By treating hydrophilic fumed silica with modifying agents, its surface hydroxyl groups can be either reacted or masked, leading to hydrophobicity. Hydrophobic fumed silica repels water, making it ideal for medium to high-polarity systems.

In contrast to its hydrophilic counterpart, hydrophobic fumed silica suits systems like polyurethanes, polyols, epoxy resins, and other polar environments. Its reduced polarity aligns with higher-polarity product systems.

Why Fumed Silica Need To Be Treated To Be Hydrophobic?

Fumed silica is available in both hydrophilic and hydrophobic forms. However, its hydrophilic nature makes it unsuitable for certain applications. Untreated fumed silica has many silanol groups on its surface,…

Factors Influencing the Choice

Three primary factors govern the selection between hydrophilic and hydrophobic fumed silica:

1. Inherent Properties of Fumed Silica

The polarity of the product system determines the compatibility of fumed silica. Hydrophilic fumed silica aligns with non-polar and low-polarity systems, whereas hydrophobic fumed silica is suited for medium to high-polarity environments. As the polarity of the system increases, the polarity of the fumed silica should decrease.

2. Application System and Scenario

The nature of the application system is a key determinant. Hydrophilic fumed silica finds favor in non-polar systems such as PVC, while hydrophobic fumed silica is fitting for epoxy resins and high-polarity environments. Matching the fumed silica polarity to the application system is crucial for optimal performance.

3. Cost Considerations

Cost plays a significant role in the selection process. Hydrophilic fumed silica is generally more cost-effective than its hydrophobic counterpart. This aspect is vital for applications where cost sensitivity is a primary concern.

conclusion

In conclusion, the choice between hydrophilic and hydrophobic fumed silica rests on a careful analysis of the product’s nature, the application system, cost considerations, and the desired dispersion method. Hydrophilic fumed silica is best suited for products requiring interaction with water molecules, while hydrophobic fumed silica serves well in scenarios where water repellency or specific processing methods are required. Ultimately, the decision should be aligned with the product’s requirements and the overall cost-effectiveness of the chosen fumed silica variant.

Hello, Customers

Goto Hebei Silicon Research Electronic Materials Co., L to know more.

My name is Van, I’m the business manager of HIFULL, I have been in Fumed Silica Industry for more than 10 years. Feel free to contact me. I’m happy to provide you the best service and products.

Van

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Fly desiccant | Pennsylvania Fly Fishing

WV waver said:

The more I read, the more I learn. Did not know that some of these products did not act as a desiccant and a floatant. Thanks again.

Click to expand...

It sounds like a PIA, but what I have been doing forever is using two separate products, one to dry off a soaked fly and a second to dress that soaked fly.

I do this because a soaked fly will respond better to being dried BEFORE redressing than a fly that is dressed damp/wet or when using a product that is supposed to do both steps in one. In other words, my dried & redressed fly floats longer and closer to the 1st float than it does when taking a shortcut.

I also get more fish on a single re-drying & re-dressing meaning most of the time all I need to do after catching a fish is false cast a few times to dry off the fly before presenting it to another riser. I assume this happens because the fly wasn't waterlogged when I redressed.

I found another problem specifically with Frog Fanny or when using 2-in-1 products containing a mixture of Silica Gel crystals (a desiccant for drying) mixed with fumed silica powder. When you put a soaked fly in that mixture OR just retreat a damp/wet fly with Frog Fanny, some of the super fine powder gets embedded in the dubbing and eventually the fly just won't float very long.

For almost as long as I have been fly fishing I've used a product that appears and disappears from the market made by Cortland called

Larger silica gel crystals like the type found in electronics in those little packets is not fine enough so it just won't work as well as Dry-Ur-Fly. I THINK the silica gel crystals folks use to dry flowers is fine enough but I have a lifetime supply of Dry-Ur-Fly so I never investigated the floral stuff.

I keep mine in an ancient Orvis container with a much more securely closing lid than the container it comes in now. An old plastic 35 mm film can works good too. When my fly is soaked, I pop it in the crystals STILL attached to my tipper, shake the container a few times, take out the fly and flick off any crystals that stick to the fly with my finger and retreat it with Frog Fanny. If the fly is particularly soaked or slimed I may do it a second time.

Another great thing about silica gel crystals, they last forever. If they get waterlogged from many successive days of drying off soaked flies, you can spread them out on a baking sheet, pop them in a 200 degree oven and in about 10 minutes they are good as new.

An alternative to using silica gel crystals is an Amadou patch, a piece of chamois or a rag. I also use an Amadou patch but I still use the silica gel crystals afterwards because the patch by itself it isn't as effective as the crystals and if the patch gets soaked from repeated use, it is even less effective. However the combination of the two gives me a fly as dry as if I just took it out of my fly box.

Again, all of these steps may seem like a lot but the alternative if you take shortcuts is a fly that will start to sink after a few casts/fish, which means time wasted trying to get it to float again or cutting it off and tying on something new.

It sounds like a PIA, but what I have been doing forever is using two separate products, one to dry off a soaked fly and a second to dress that soaked fly.I do this because a soaked fly will respond better to being dried BEFORE redressing than a fly that is dressed damp/wet or when using a product that is supposed to do both steps in one. In other words, my dried & redressed fly floats longer and closer to the 1st float than it does when taking a shortcut.I also get more fish on a single re-drying & re-dressing meaning most of the time all I need to do after catching a fish is false cast a few times to dry off the fly before presenting it to another riser. I assume this happens because the fly wasn't waterlogged when I redressed.I found another problem specifically with Frog Fanny or when using 2-in-1 products containing a mixture of Silica Gel crystals (a desiccant for drying) mixed with fumed silica powder. When you put a soaked fly in that mixture OR just retreat a damp/wet fly with Frog Fanny, some of the super fine powder gets embedded in the dubbing and eventually the fly just won't float very long.For almost as long as I have been fly fishing I've used a product that appears and disappears from the market made by Cortland called Dry-Ur-Fly . Dry-Ur-Fly is super fine silica gel crystals that are small enough to make contact with all the surfaces of a soaked fly and dry it completely.Larger silica gel crystals like the type found in electronics in those little packets is not fine enough so it just won't work as well as Dry-Ur-Fly. I THINK the silica gel crystals folks use to dry flowers is fine enough but I have a lifetime supply of Dry-Ur-Fly so I never investigated the floral stuff.I keep mine in an ancient Orvis container with a much more securely closing lid than the container it comes in now. An old plastic 35 mm film can works good too. When my fly is soaked, I pop it in the crystals STILL attached to my tipper, shake the container a few times, take out the fly and flick off any crystals that stick to the fly with my finger and retreat it with Frog Fanny. If the fly is particularly soaked or slimed I may do it a second time.Another great thing about silica gel crystals, they last forever. If they get waterlogged from many successive days of drying off soaked flies, you can spread them out on a baking sheet, pop them in a 200 degree oven and in about 10 minutes they are good as new.An alternative to using silica gel crystals is an Amadou patch, a piece of chamois or a rag. I also use an Amadou patch but I still use the silica gel crystals afterwards because the patch by itself it isn't as effective as the crystals and if the patch gets soaked from repeated use, it is even less effective. However the combination of the two gives me a fly as dry as if I just took it out of my fly box.Again, all of these steps may seem like a lot but the alternative if you take shortcuts is a fly that will start to sink after a few casts/fish, which means time wasted trying to get it to float again or cutting it off and tying on something new.

How to Choose Between Hydrophilic and Hydrophobic ...

In the realm of nanomaterials, fumed silica emerges as a versatile substance with properties that can be tailored for various applications. One significant distinction lies in its hydrophilic and hydrophobic attributes. Understanding the factors influencing the selection between these two forms of fumed silica is paramount for optimizing product performance. Let’s delve into the world of fumed silica and explore the key considerations that shape this choice.

The Genesis of Fumed Silica

Fumed silica comes into being through a high-temperature hydrolysis process involving silicon halides in a hydrogen-oxygen flame. The resultant nanoscale amorphous powder exhibits unique characteristics that find utility across diverse industries.

What Are The Materials And Processes Used To Manufacture Fumed Silica?

Fumed silica, or pyrogenic silica, colloidal silicon dioxide, is an amorphous white inorganic powder that has high specific surface area, nano-scale primary particle size and a relatively high (among silica…

Hydrophilic Fumed Silica: Properties and Applications

Hydrophilic fumed silica is characterized by surface hydroxyl groups that readily interact with water molecules, endowing it with water-attracting qualities. This type of fumed silica smoothly wets surfaces and disperses within water-based systems. It’s particularly suited for non-polar or low-polarity products.

Applications of hydrophilic fumed silica extend to non-polar systems such as methyl siloxanes, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and various hydrocarbons. It also finds a place in low-polarity systems like MS Polymers and STP-E, contributing to stability and dispersion.

Hydrophobic Fumed Silica: A Shift in Properties

By treating hydrophilic fumed silica with modifying agents, its surface hydroxyl groups can be either reacted or masked, leading to hydrophobicity. Hydrophobic fumed silica repels water, making it ideal for medium to high-polarity systems.

In contrast to its hydrophilic counterpart, hydrophobic fumed silicahydrophobic fumed silica suits systems like polyurethanes, polyols, epoxy resins, and other polar environments. Its reduced polarity aligns with higher-polarity product systems.

Why Fumed Silica Need To Be Treated To Be Hydrophobic?

Fumed silica is available in both hydrophilic and hydrophobic forms. However, its hydrophilic nature makes it unsuitable for certain applications. Untreated fumed silica has many silanol groups on its surface,…

Factors Influencing the Choice

Three primary factors govern the selection between hydrophilic and hydrophobic fumed silica:

1. Inherent Properties of Fumed Silica

The polarity of the product system determines the compatibility of fumed silica. Hydrophilic fumed silica aligns with non-polar and low-polarity systems, whereas hydrophobic fumed silica is suited for medium to high-polarity environments. As the polarity of the system increases, the polarity of the fumed silica should decrease.

2. Application System and Scenario

The nature of the application system is a key determinant. Hydrophilic fumed silica finds favor in non-polar systems such as PVC, while hydrophobic fumed silica is fitting for epoxy resins and high-polarity environments. Matching the fumed silica polarity to the application system is crucial for optimal performance.

3. Cost Considerations

Cost plays a significant role in the selection process. Hydrophilic fumed silica is generally more cost-effective than its hydrophobic counterpart. This aspect is vital for applications where cost sensitivity is a primary concern.

conclusion

In conclusion, the choice between hydrophilic and hydrophobic fumed silica rests on a careful analysis of the product’s nature, the application system, cost considerations, and the desired dispersion method. Hydrophilic fumed silica is best suited for products requiring interaction with water molecules, while hydrophobic fumed silica serves well in scenarios where water repellency or specific processing methods are required. Ultimately, the decision should be aligned with the product’s requirements and the overall cost-effectiveness of the chosen fumed silica variant.

Hello, Customers

My name is Van, I’m the business manager of HIFULL, I have been in Fumed Silica Industry for more than 10 years. Feel free to contact me. I’m happy to provide you the best service and products.

Van

Business Manager

Name

Email

*

Company

For

Message

*

Please enable JavaScript in your browser to submit the form

Fly desiccant | Pennsylvania Fly Fishing

WV waver said:

The more I read, the more I learn. Did not know that some of these products did not act as a desiccant and a floatant. Thanks again.

Click to expand...

It sounds like a PIA, but what I have been doing forever is using two separate products, one to dry off a soaked fly and a second to dress that soaked fly.

I do this because a soaked fly will respond better to being dried BEFORE redressing than a fly that is dressed damp/wet or when using a product that is supposed to do both steps in one. In other words, my dried & redressed fly floats longer and closer to the 1st float than it does when taking a shortcut.

I also get more fish on a single re-drying & re-dressing meaning most of the time all I need to do after catching a fish is false cast a few times to dry off the fly before presenting it to another riser. I assume this happens because the fly wasn't waterlogged when I redressed.

I found another problem specifically with Frog Fanny or when using 2-in-1 products containing a mixture of Silica Gel crystals (a desiccant for drying) mixed with fumed silica powder. When you put a soaked fly in that mixture OR just retreat a damp/wet fly with Frog Fanny, some of the super fine powder gets embedded in the dubbing and eventually the fly just won't float very long.

For almost as long as I have been fly fishing I've used a product that appears and disappears from the market made by Cortland called

Larger silica gel crystals like the type found in electronics in those little packets is not fine enough so it just won't work as well as Dry-Ur-Fly. I THINK the silica gel crystals folks use to dry flowers is fine enough but I have a lifetime supply of Dry-Ur-Fly so I never investigated the floral stuff.

I keep mine in an ancient Orvis container with a much more securely closing lid than the container it comes in now. An old plastic 35 mm film can works good too. When my fly is soaked, I pop it in the crystals STILL attached to my tipper, shake the container a few times, take out the fly and flick off any crystals that stick to the fly with my finger and retreat it with Frog Fanny. If the fly is particularly soaked or slimed I may do it a second time.

Another great thing about silica gel crystals, they last forever. If they get waterlogged from many successive days of drying off soaked flies, you can spread them out on a baking sheet, pop them in a 200 degree oven and in about 10 minutes they are good as new.

An alternative to using silica gel crystals is an Amadou patch, a piece of chamois or a rag. I also use an Amadou patch but I still use the silica gel crystals afterwards because the patch by itself it isn't as effective as the crystals and if the patch gets soaked from repeated use, it is even less effective. However the combination of the two gives me a fly as dry as if I just took it out of my fly box.

Again, all of these steps may seem like a lot but the alternative if you take shortcuts is a fly that will start to sink after a few casts/fish, which means time wasted trying to get it to float again or cutting it off and tying on something new.

It sounds like a PIA, but what I have been doing forever is using two separate products, one to dry off a soaked fly and a second to dress that soaked fly.I do this because a soaked fly will respond better to being dried BEFORE redressing than a fly that is dressed damp/wet or when using a product that is supposed to do both steps in one. In other words, my dried & redressed fly floats longer and closer to the 1st float than it does when taking a shortcut.I also get more fish on a single re-drying & re-dressing meaning most of the time all I need to do after catching a fish is false cast a few times to dry off the fly before presenting it to another riser. I assume this happens because the fly wasn't waterlogged when I redressed.I found another problem specifically with Frog Fanny or when using 2-in-1 products containing a mixture of Silica Gel crystals (a desiccant for drying) mixed with fumed silica powder. When you put a soaked fly in that mixture OR just retreat a damp/wet fly with Frog Fanny, some of the super fine powder gets embedded in the dubbing and eventually the fly just won't float very long.For almost as long as I have been fly fishing I've used a product that appears and disappears from the market made by Cortland called Dry-Ur-Fly . Dry-Ur-Fly is super fine silica gel crystals that are small enough to make contact with all the surfaces of a soaked fly and dry it completely.Larger silica gel crystals like the type found in electronics in those little packets is not fine enough so it just won't work as well as Dry-Ur-Fly. I THINK the silica gel crystals folks use to dry flowers is fine enough but I have a lifetime supply of Dry-Ur-Fly so I never investigated the floral stuff.I keep mine in an ancient Orvis container with a much more securely closing lid than the container it comes in now. An old plastic 35 mm film can works good too. When my fly is soaked, I pop it in the crystals STILL attached to my tipper, shake the container a few times, take out the fly and flick off any crystals that stick to the fly with my finger and retreat it with Frog Fanny. If the fly is particularly soaked or slimed I may do it a second time.Another great thing about silica gel crystals, they last forever. If they get waterlogged from many successive days of drying off soaked flies, you can spread them out on a baking sheet, pop them in a 200 degree oven and in about 10 minutes they are good as new.An alternative to using silica gel crystals is an Amadou patch, a piece of chamois or a rag. I also use an Amadou patch but I still use the silica gel crystals afterwards because the patch by itself it isn't as effective as the crystals and if the patch gets soaked from repeated use, it is even less effective. However the combination of the two gives me a fly as dry as if I just took it out of my fly box.Again, all of these steps may seem like a lot but the alternative if you take shortcuts is a fly that will start to sink after a few casts/fish, which means time wasted trying to get it to float again or cutting it off and tying on something new.