What are emollients in cosmetic formulas?

06 May.,2024

 

What are emollients in cosmetic formulas?

This month we are focusing on cosmetic raw materials and in this post we’ll talk about emollients.

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In a previous post we talked about the three different kinds of cosmetic ingredients including functional, aesthetic and claims ingredients. Emollients would be considered functional ingredients.  Specifically, they would be considered ‘conditioning’ ingredients. 

Emollients

The term emollient refers to materials that are able to soften skin.  The word is actually derived from mollire which is a Latin verb meaning “to soften.” In the cosmetic formulating world emollients are ingredients incorporated into products to improve the feel of skin and hair. Use of these ingredients for cosmetic purposes dates back to the earliest days of recorded history.

Emollients are a class of ingredient with a wide variety of molecular structures. They are typically non-polar materials and come from both natural and synthetic sources.

Natural emollients

Most of the oldest cosmetic ingredients come from natural sources. This makes sense because synthetic chemistry wasn’t invented. Humans may have stumbled on methods for synthesizing soap and alcohol but it would be years before we actually knew what was happening.  For this reason people took ingredients that nature already made and applied them to hair and skin.

Triglycerides

The most common natural emollients, triglycerides, are plant and animal fats and oils. These ingredients are made up of three fatty acids attached to glycerin.  When the triglyceride comes from a plant it is referred to as an oil. That would include materials like coconut oil, soybean oil, palm oil, etc.  When the source of the triglyceride is an animal the ingredient is often referred to as a fat. Examples include lard and tallow.  But animal triglycerides are also called oils including shark liver oil and mink oil.

Triglycerides have different characteristics such as melting point, oily feel, compatibility with other ingredients, and the ability to penetrate the skin. When formulating with these ingredients you have to experiment to find which of these works best with your formula.  In general, triglycerides will feel more oily than other types of emollients.

Fatty acid distribution

The characteristic responsible for the differences among triglycerides is the distribution of the fatty acids in the material.  As stated previously, triglycerides are composed of fatty acids. Fatty acids are hydrocarbons with varying number of Carbon and Hydrogen atoms. Different triglycerides will have differing compositions of fatty acids. Coconut oil has a high level of 12 Carbon fatty acids. Palm oil has a high level of a 16 carbon fatty acid.  This chart shows the fatty acid distribution of different types of natural oils.

It’s important to note that a number of cosmetic raw materials are derived from triglycerides. This requires the material to be chemically modified to separate the fatty acids from the glycerine. The free fatty acids are used to create emollients called esters which we will discuss shortly.

Lanolin

Lanolin is an emollient derived from sheep’s wool. It’s like the sebum that is naturally formed on your scalp and is a by-product of wool production. While some people object to the use of animal based triglycerides because obtaining it requires the killing of animals, lanolin may be less objectionable because sheep are not harmed in collecting it.

Lanolin is a molecularly more complex molecule than triglycerides. It is mostly non-polar and comprised of a complex mixture of esters. It is a soft solid at room temperature that melts at 40C.  Lanolin has gives a nice feel to skin and hair and has been used since ancient times. 

The material can be further separated to form lanolin oil which is liquid at room temperature. Lanolin can also be chemically reacted with other materials to form derivatives with various characteristics. If your formulating allows you to use animal based ingredients, lanolin is certainly a good emollient to use.

Is it natural?

While people don’t think of something derived from petroleum as natural, it certainly isn’t synthetic. Mineral oil comes right from the ground and is actually one of the most commonly used emollients. It is a complex blend of hydrocarbons and can actually refer to a number of different materials.  This slide presentation on mineral oil is interesting.

Synthetic emollients

Since natural emollients can feel oily and greasy and create stability challenges for formulators, synthetic chemistry has come to the rescue.  There are a wide range of emollient esters created for formulators to get all the benefits of without those drawbacks.

Simple esters

The most common synthetic emollients are emollient esters. If you recall from organic chemistry course esters are created by reacting an alcohol with an acid. Those fatty acids that were chemically removed from the triglycerides are reacted with various alcohols to produce some fine emollients.

The characteristics of these esters are a result of the fatty acids used to make them, but they are also influenced by the composition of the alcohol portion of the molecule. The best known of the simple esters is isopropyl myristate. That is the molecule resulting from a reaction with Isopropyl Alcohol and Myristic Acid. It is liquid at room temperature but also provides a non-oily feel.  A wide variety of esters can be made just by changing the composition of the alcohols and acids that are reacted. In general, a longer fatty acid will result in an ester with a more oily feel.

Complex esters

Simple esters are composed of an acid and an alcohol. But more complex esters can be created using molecules that have multiple acid or alcohol functional groups. The chemistry for making these ingredients was developed in the lubricant industry so there aren’t a lot of these that have been adapted to the cosmetic industry. Examples include dioctyl sebecate and dioctyl maleate.  They are very light feeling and non-greasy.

Polyhydric alcohols

Other more complex esters are produced with molecules that have multiple alcohol (-OH) groups. The simplest is ethylene glycol which is reacted with acids to produce materials like Ethylene Glycol Mono Stearate (EGMS). This material is solid at room temperature and is used in many formulas to produce a pearling effect. Ethylene glycol can be polymerized to produce very high molecular weight emollients that have the added benefit of being cosmetic thickeners.  PEG-150 distearate is an example of this.

Formulating with emollients

There are many different options that raw material manufacturers can choose to produce different kinds of emollients.  And they do. I remember being overwhelmed by the choices of emollients available. You have to find one that works for you and stick with it. The reality is that consumers usually can’t tell much difference between an emollient like mineral oil and olive oil.

When you are formulating with emollients here are some of the characteristics you need to consider.

  • Performance - how does the material make skin feel
  • Color - does the material impart any unwanted color to your formula
  • Odor - Some emollients have an objectionable odor
  • Origin - some consumers and marketers want you to avoid animal based ingredients
  • Compatibility - stability can be a big challenge when using emollients
  • Cost - you should strive to find a material that is effective at the lowest cost

 Would you like to know more about formulating with cosmetic raw materials? Click below for your free report!

What Is an Emollient in Makeup & Skincare Products?

Navigating the world of beauty terminology (specifically ingredients) can get confusing, fast. That's why it's so crucial to hone in on some key players that could make all the difference in your skincare and makeup routines. Effective, versatile ingredients are foundational elements that bring tangible benefits to the table. 

Let’s talk about emollients: what they are, why they're important, and how they differ from other elements in your products. The goal? To arm you with the knowledge you need to make educated choices for your skin's unique needs. Let’s read on.

What Is an Emollient?

An emollient serves a simple yet critical role: making your skin feel softer and smoother. These substances function by filling in tiny gaps on the surface of your epidermis. 

Emollients are derived from a wide range of sources, such as plant oils, natural lipids, fatty acids, and synthetic materials, and find their way into various skincare and makeup products. They work in various forms, notably emollient creams, lotions, and ointments. 

These items utilize emollients for moisturizing and providing a protective barrier against water loss and environmental factors. Their multitasking capabilities make emollients an essential ingredient in a multitude of skincare and makeup products.

Why Prioritize Emollients?

When it comes to achieving hydrated, supple-looking skin, emollients should not be overlooked. Their role extends far beyond simply softening your skin. They are key players in maintaining your skin’s well-being, especially when adverse conditions or external factors lead to dryness or discomfort. 

One of the chief benefits of emollients is their capacity to offer relief from a range of dermatological issues. If you're contending with conditions like dermatitis, eczema, or psoriasis, emollients can provide a much-needed soothing touch by calming symptoms such as dryness, cracking, or scaling.

But the usefulness of emollients doesn't stop with specific skin conditions. Life circumstances can also wreak havoc on your skin. 

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Certain health treatments often lead to dry, sensitive skin, requiring special care. Even frequent hand washing or working with harsh chemicals can strip your skin of its natural moisture, and emollients step in to restore that balance. 

Environmental factors can also play a huge role in the quality and hydration of your skin. Cold, dry air is often a culprit in seasonal skin discomfort. This is exacerbated when every building you walk into is cranking up the heat to combat the cold outside, which dries out your skin. Emollient-rich products can be used to fight these symptoms.

What's the Difference Between an Emollient and a Moisturizer?

When walking the skincare aisles, you might stumble upon the terms "emollient" and "moisturizer" used almost interchangeably. While closely related, they do serve different functions in skincare. 

An emollient is essentially a component found within moisturizers, designed specifically to soften and smooth the feeling of your skin. Different emollients achieve this by filling in gaps in the skin barrier, leading to a smoother texture.

On the other hand, a moisturizer is a broader term encompassing a blend of ingredients, including but not limited to emollients. These formulations work to hydrate the skin by attracting and locking in moisture. 

Understanding this distinction allows you to better tailor your skincare routine, selecting products that deliver hydration, softness, or, ideally, both. But what are the other components of an effective moisturizer you need to be aware of to get the most out of your makeup and skincare products? 

What Are the Other Important Aspects of Hydration?

When we talk about hydration, it's a multi-faceted process that goes beyond just applying a layer of cream. Hydration involves a range of ingredients that draw in, lock in, and sustain moisture in your skin. 

This includes different types of emollients, but other key moisturizers back up your emollient products and promote barrier function and hydration. These ingredients can be broadly categorized into humectants and occlusives, each playing a distinct role in maintaining optimal skin health.

Humectants

Humectants, such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and urea, play a pivotal role in your skin's hydration. These molecules effectively act like magnets. 

They attract water to your skin and bind it to themselves. They can actually bind many times their own weight in water, so their benefit to your skin pays you back in multitudes. 

Using products enriched with humectants can also help minimize transepidermal water loss (TEWL) throughout the day by helping your skin to draw out moisture from even the driest environment, whereas your skin may otherwise lose water. When these moisture magnets are combined with emollients, they elevate your skin's moisture retention capabilities.

Occlusives

Last but not least are occlusives, agents like petrolatum and mineral oil that are experts at sealing in moisture. They create a physical barrier over your skin to prevent moisture loss, essentially locking in all the good work done by humectants and emollients. This layer also protects against external factors like wind and pollution that can dry out your skin. 

Particularly useful in nighttime care, occlusives solidify your skin's moisture barrier, keeping it hydrated and healthy. By employing this trio—emollients, humectants, and occlusives—in a coordinated manner, your skin reaps the benefits of a holistic, multi-layered approach to hydration and care.

How Can I Incorporate Emollients Into My Routine?

When curating a skin care regimen that addresses your skin's unique needs, emollients stand as indispensable assets. Their hydrating properties, ease of application, and compatibility with other skincare ingredients make them a must-have. 

Because of this, we've consciously infused our product line with these skin-loving substances to maximize the feel of hydration, smoothness, and overall skin health. So, let’s talk through some of our favorite products that deliver all of these hydrating ingredients and more.

What The Foundation

First up in your emollient journey is What The Foundation. It’s a tinted moisture balm and traditional foundation that works in harmony to reveal radiant-looking skin. 

Infused with sodium hyaluronate (another formulation of hyaluronic acid), this product dives deep into the skin layers, providing thorough hydration that goes well beyond surface level. The smooth texture allows for fuss-free blending, creating an even complexion. 

Your skin feels both fresh and natural. And with 12 expansive shades, every skin tone finds its match. 

Miracle Balm

If you want something that rests perfectly between makeup and skincare, our Miracle Balm is the quintessential product for those who favor the natural look with a little enhancement. 

The formula shines with light-reflecting elements that bring out your skin’s natural beauty. Available in multiple shades, from the clear and opal-tinted Au Naturel to the rich bronze hues of Sunkissed, this balm offers flexibility for all skin tones. 

A proven emollient enriched with fatty acids and an array of skin-nourishing vitamins and minerals, jojoba seed oil stars in this product. Miracle Balm serves not just as a superficial beautifier but as a staple in maintaining a well-hydrated and nourished skin barrier.

The Face Pencil

The grand finale to this trio is The Face Pencil. Whether you're a seasoned makeup artist or just starting your cosmetic journey, this product is for everyone—designed to mask imperfections like redness and dark spots. 

Shea butter, a potent emollient, fortifies the formula, providing your skin with vital vitamins A and E, along with essential fatty acids. In addition to immediate coverage, you'll benefit from long-term hydration and nourishment. 

No chalky undertones to worry about—the clear base assures a match with all complexions. (We recommend keeping two colors on hand, one to cover darker areas and one for lighter. Find your ideal shades with this quick quiz.)

The Bottom Line

The use of emollients can be the cornerstone of effective skincare and makeup. Not only do they offer the immediate feeling of softness and smoothness, but they also support long-term skin health. 

Whether you're a skincare veteran or just starting, incorporating emollient-rich products from Jones Road into your regimen promises a well-rounded approach to skincare. Explore our range and experience the difference that well-formulated, emollient-rich products can make in your beauty journey.

For more information, please visit cosmetic emollient ingredients manufacturer.