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Lelandwelds said: Click to expand...
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You can have both if you section the floor out. You don't have to rely on internet myths or "knowledge" here; the ACI document details this out.Not for a "thin" (8-ish inches, or less) slab. It's important not to confuse a thin slab, which isby the ground with a simple beam, which is only supported on two ends.With a simple concrete beam, you rely on the depth and the steel reinforcement to counteract the sheer forces and the large bending forces. (Neither of which should be seen in a slab on ground.)With a continuously supported slab, you have the ground underneath resisting vertical forces, so there is typically no sheer. The ground underneath also helps the slab resist bending. (The slab will only bend as far as the ground beneath gives way.)So, the pad depth and the reinforcing steel (on a thin slab) are not structurally significant with regard to vehicle traffic forces, other than spreading out the bearing forces on the ground (like the footing does on a foundation.)Here's another way you can think about it: If you put a 1" thick sample of 3000 psi concrete on the ground and a 6" thick sample of 3000 psi concrete on the ground, both are going to break right at the point where you apply 3000 psi of pressure. (The 6" thick sample isn't any stronger than the 1" sample in that scenario.)(Depending on how you use a slab and attach certain machinery/equipment to it, there could be situations where the depth becomes significant to resisting some bending of the slab, but I can't think of any off hand.)You just proved the point. The minute that you develop a void under the slab, things get really weak - you go from a continuously supported slab to the simple beam condition. (Shear happens at the edge of the void and there is room for the slab to bend into the void. Most thin slabs won't have enough reinforcing to deal with this and will crack.) < This situation isn't a slab issue, it's a ground or a sub base issue.If you are concerned about the base and voids, you can structurally reinforce your slab. The ACI guide specifies how to do this also. My garage is built on top of some really poor quality fill and I went this way. I recall that I had to use #4 bar spaced somewhere around 6" OC for a 5" 4000 psi slab.
Back in 2011 I built a teardrop camper, at the time I needed a place to sleep a few nights a week as the long drive home was causing me to fall asleep behind the wheel way to often. I got the plans for the teardrop free from the best teardrop trailer site in the world.
In the discussion forums many different ways to cover plywood are mentioned, from today's most common one, skinning with aluminum sheet (very expensive!), to fiberglass and marine epoxy ($$$), Duraback (a bed liner product that comes in many colors), FRP, the shower wall liner sold in home improvement stores. FRP is cheaper, but it isn't UV stable and over time it will fade and crack in the sun. Filon, the UV stable version of FRP is an option, but unless you live in an area where RV's are manufactured shipping will be an issue.
Good old paint is the cheapest and lightest option, but as anybody who has to paint their house knows, paint will need to be redone every few years, and the wood underneath may end up getting damaged or weathered.
Reading about boats and boat building, (my real hobby) a simple cheap covering was mentioned, canvas and paint. Many old boats built before fiberglass and marine epoxies had canvas impregnated with paint for the decks. If you can find one of those old wooden boats rotting away in the back of some boat yard, some digging with a knife will show that the wood under the painted canvas is as sound as the day the paint was put on.
Wanting to save money and make my trailer as light as possible, I bought exterior paint and drop cloth canvas, some people use Titebond II instead of paint, Titebond II is cheaper per gallon than paint. you will still need paint though to fill the weave of the fabric and make it inert.
When you used fiberglass and epoxy, the epoxy sticks to the surface of the wood and binds the fiberglass sheet too it, then the epoxy fills the weave in the fiberglass making a skin over it to protect the fiberglass from damage. The fiberglass gives strength to the epoxy that epoxy alone doesn't have by itself. A sheet of plywood with fiberglass and epoxy skin is much stronger than plywood by itself, something used to make wooden boats and airplanes stronger.
Painted canvas works much the same way, the paint (or titebond II) sticks to the wood surface, and binds the canvas (or any natural fiber fabric) to it. Then the paint fills the fabric weave and protects it from UV breakdown. The fabric gives the paint the strength paint doesn't have on its own.
After using my teardrop for one summer, I ended up taking it off of the trailer I had it on, I was moving and needed a way to move stuff between houses. The teardrop body spent the only winter in a garage it ever has. The next summer I put the body back on the trailer and used it for camping, As part of putting it on the trailer, I added a second door for my wife to use (very important for a teardrop) and removed some unneeded framing I had built into the floor of the teardrop, This removed some weight and made the trailer shorter, making it easier to tow over all. I ended up having to peel some of the canvas loose from the framing, in every case the painted canvas ended up pulling the top layer of wood off with it, proof enough to me that the painted canvas bond is strong and stuck for good!
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the covering process, my teardrop was built over a few weeks as I needed a place to stay NOW! Pictures only happened when I reached a milestone in the project or at the end of the day (usually in the dark) what I have for a build log is here storm warning teardrop build
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In 2014 I got the bug to build a foam camper, while the teardrop is nice, it only sleeps two. We have four kids and not every campground allows extra tents with a camper. I wanted the new camper to be made almost entirely of foam, since foam doesn't rot, and is much lighter. To get familiar with the foamie building process I built a small eight foot boat out of foam, using a design I had already built in plywood. You can see how that turned out here seafoam facebook album. Seafoam proved the concept had great potential, so over the winter of 2015 I designed and created another foam kayak called Sawfish the kayak is a great success, the Instrucable for it won two contests here, and generated a ton of interest on the web.
Armed with the experience I learned from the first two foam boats, I also created a Foam camper in the spring of 2015. It is not finished yet, but has already gone on a 10 hour drive and camping trip in the Adirondack Mountains of New York State.
There are two ways to do PMF, with one better for covering foam, and the other a little bit cheaper, and better for covering wood.
To show the two slightly different processes that can be used, I've broken it into two different sections. The first will be called Foamie, this is the best process to use over foam projects. Most of the people reading this will be looking for how to cover a foam camper or boat.
The second section starts on page 7, it shows the process I used to cover my plywood teardrop. It doesn't use any glue to attach the fabric to the wood. Instead a heavy coat of paint is used to stick the fabric, just like the old timers did.
You can also mix the two processes, like this builder did.
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