Everyone makes mistakes, even good mechanics... By not properly installing the slave cylinder it is certainly possible to destroy a clutch... I'd say its even likely... However, this may be a case of the mechanic not replacing the right parts on your first visit... Often a shop will attempt to replace a part that is easier to replace, or maybe a little less expensive and hope that they eliminate the problem, sometimes it works out and they get the right part, but most often this isnt the case...
Everyone makes mistakes, even good mechanics... By not properly installing the slave cylinder it is certainly possible to destroy a clutch... I'd say its even likely... However, this may be a case of the mechanic not replacing the right parts on your first visit... Often a shop will attempt to replace a part that is easier to replace, or maybe a little less expensive and hope that they eliminate the problem, sometimes it works out and they get the right part, but most often this isnt the case...There are methods to check the clutch to determine whether it is in acceptable condition, I'd suspect that they did not remove the inspection cover to see...As far as the slave cylinder, you bought a new one and paid for the replacement even though you probably didn't need one. Also the 230 that you paid seems a bit on the high side...Then the mechanic botched the installation. This should not have happened... because the replacement is about as simple as it gets... By now your clutch is probably a goner, but it may have been going out anyway and the mechanic just didn't check...I'd ask for an adjustment in the bill to cover the labor portion of the slave cylinder replacement. If they won't budge, then I'd have them reassemble your car and take it to another shop...It is imperative to diagnose the whole problem properly before replacing parts on the car...otherwise they are just throwing parts at the car hoping to find the right part... Its your money and your car...
For my early '65 D100, I used a '67/'68 dual res. master from NAPA, brand new wheel cylinders, 3/16"Codger wrote:Hey John,
What all do we need to do the conversion. Can you give a run down on how to do it? If I have drum brakes, don't I only need to figure out how to run the lines?
Thanks
For my early '65 D100, I used a '67/'68 dual res. master from NAPA, brand new wheel cylinders, 3/16"line [all new fittings] and new rubber hoses. I used two single res. system brass splitters [used brassline plugs for un-used outlets] but the BETTER way to go would be to get the dual res. splitter from a['67 or newer] D100. Its pretty basic from there on.... double flare your line ends, hook them up andbleed the system from the furthest wheel cylinder [Rt. Rear] back to the master.John