We liked the Enameled Cast Iron Skillet from Staub the best; it heated up quickly and evenly, was easy to clean, and everything we cooked in it turned out great. The skillet from Le Creuset came in a close second, with even heating and solid searing.
Enameled cast iron skillets, a cousin of the uncoated cast iron skillet, offer certain advantages over their non-enameled counterparts. For one, the enamel coating provides protection from rust and doesn’t need to be seasoned, and it can still handle high temperatures. Some enameled cast iron skillets can even be washed in the dishwasher, while you would never do that with uncoated cast iron. The glossy surface is also easy to clean and offers a bit more of a nonstick coating right out of the box (though to be clear, this is not a nonstick skillet).
While enamel does provide some distinct advantages, it’s also prone to chipping, scratching, and staining. Extreme temperature changes can expose the enamel to thermal shock and could potentially cause cracking. However, there are still plenty of occasions where an enameled cast iron skillet is a great choice (like pan-roasting or frying eggs). But are all enamel cast iron skillets created equal? We put eight to the test to find out.
The Winners, at a Glance
We found this offering from Staub was a fantastic skillet in terms of quality, performance, and ease of use. The flared sides allowed for great browning (since they didn't capture steam) and easy spatula access, and because it was relatively lightweight, it heated up quickly and evenly.
While this skillet heated up a little more slowly than the Staub, it still reached high, even temperatures. It also seared steak well and cooked up perfect over-easy eggs, and the flared sides made it easy to maneuver a spatula into the pan. This is also many Serious Eats editors' favorite enameled cast iron pan.
If you want to add an enameled cast iron skillet to your kitchen for less than $50, go for the Crock Pot skillet, which did better than many other more expensive models. The smooth, enameled interior let us flip fried eggs easily.
The Tests
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
What We Learned
Lighter Skillets Absorbed Heat Better and Heated More Evenly
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
Results varied in our heat tests, with some pans heating up fast to high temperatures, and others not so much. Some pans were all over the place in terms of temperature between the center and sides, whereas others were more even across the entire surface. When looking at the results measured from the center of the pan, we saw that the Staub, which was on the lighter side at four pounds, 15 ounces (heavier skillets ranged from seven to nine pounds) got the hottest the fastest. It remained in the top spot, achieving a maximum heat none of the others could reach (though the Le Creuset came close). This tracks with findings we saw in our uncoated cast iron skillet testing, where the lightest pans reached a higher temperature faster because of less overall metal. However, that doesn’t explain why the Lodge skillet (solidly in the middle of the pack weight-wise at six pounds, 13 ounces) was so slow to heat and never reached temperatures that all the other pans hit. Instead of weight, we think this is likely due to the makeup of the enamel, which can affect how the heat is distributed over the surface of the pan. Enamel quality varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, depending on the methods and materials used in the enamel process.
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
We also saw varied findings when examining the ranges of temperatures taken across the surface of the pan. Some pans had a similar temperature regardless of where the temperature was taken, whereas others differed widely. The Staub, for example, starts to look like an almost straight line towards the end of the test, indicating extremely even temperatures across the surface.
Gently Flared Sides Were Better Than Straighter Ones
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
Skillets with high sides that stuck up at right angles from the bottom tended to trap steam, which hindered browning and caramelization. Conversely, flared sides whisked steam away from the bottom so meat seared optimally. We also found that cornbread released more easily from skillets with sloped sides; straighter sides clung to the cornbread and made it difficult to remove. Plus, a flared edge made it a bit easier to maneuver a spatula into the pan to retrieve food.
Big Handles (and Helper Handles) Made Maneuvering Easy
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
The design also played a part in usability, as heavy pans with small handles were much more difficult to grip and transfer to the oven or sink. We preferred longer handles with rounded edges, which were more comfortable to grab (like the handle on the Le Creuset). For heavier pans with pour spouts (which should be large and deep, or they risk not really being useful at all), helping handles were absolutely vital, and we liked ones that were big enough to grab easily with a thick kitchen towel or oven mitt.
The Criteria: What to Look for in an Enameled Cast Iron Skillet
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray / Grace Kelly
There are huge differences in price with enameled cast iron. Generally speaking, the more expensive the pan was (and if it was from a legacy brand like Staub or Le Creuset), the better it performed. This is because the craftsmanship and quality control of these brands are very meticulous (as we've found when we tested Dutch Ovens). We also found that, generally, matte black enamel on the interior is preferable since it’s less prone to staining.
The presence or lack of a helper handle isn’t that big of a deal unless you are dealing with pans that weigh more than eight pounds. Any less than that, and the average home cook should be able to lift or pour from the pan one-handed without issue. That being said, if it does have a helper handle, it should be big enough to easily grasp with a thick kitchen towel in hand. The main handle should also be large enough to grab with two hands. Regarding pour spouts: The best are larger and deeper; shallower ones tend to dribble.
When it comes to weight, lighter skillets were easier to lift and carry and also tended to heat up faster (which makes sense, because less material to heat means less time to reach a consistent temperature). We also preferred skillets with gently flared which resulted in better browning and less sticking when baking cornbread.
The Best Enameled Cast Iron Skillets
What we liked: The Staub surpassed most other skillets. When we conducted our heat absorption and retention test, this skillet reached the highest temperature the fastest and was the most consistent from center to edge. This was reflected when we cooked in it as well—the eggs and steak cooked evenly (and they didn’t stick). The smooth, curved sides whisked away steam before it had a chance to interfere with browning and made it easier to turn and remove food with a spatula.
Another great aspect of the Staub skillet is that the maximum heat rating is 900°F, about 400 degrees higher than any other pan in our lineup. While most home ovens don’t get that hot, you could roast vegetables in a pizza oven with this skillet with no problem. The pan is also (amazingly) dishwasher-safe, though hand washing was very easy; we hardly needed to scrub it at all due to the slick enamel coating.
What we didn’t like: While the Staub skillet did well in our cornbread test, we did notice some very slight uneven cooking. Also, the helper handle is quite small; if it was a bit bigger, it would be even more useful.
Key Specs
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
What we liked: Like the Staub, this skillet heated up to high temps evenly across its surface, seared steaks beautifully, and perfectly cooked over-easy eggs. We liked the rounded handle, which was easy to grasp, and the curved sides that allowed for steam to escape and also made it easy to use a spatula in the skillet.
What we didn't like: This pan has more material than the Staub, so it took longer to heat up. But once it did, it retained its heat beautifully across the cooking surface.
Key Specs
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
What we liked: The Crock-Pot brand is a household name for its eponymous slow cooker, but its cookware line is equally solid. While other enameled cast iron skillets easily cost a couple of hundred dollars, the Crock-Pot skillet will set you back $36 (at the time of writing). It produced great results during the egg and steak tests, and even the cornbread had nice, even browning on the bottom.
While the enamel isn’t totally nonstick (we had some issues with the cornbread), fried eggs and seared steak came off easily. We expected the white enamel interior to stain or discolor after testing, but no residue remained post-cleaning. The handles are comfortable to hold, and maneuvering the pan is just as easy with one hand as it is with two due to the pan's lightweight.
What we didn’t like: The white enamel interior requires a bit more elbow grease when cleaning to get back to pure white, and the finish wasn’t entirely nonstick; cornbread got a bit stuck in it when we tried to turn it out (though it did brown nice and evenly on the bottom). The high sides had a hard right angle from the bottom, which made it difficult to use an offset spatula to help release the cornbread. This pan is also not dishwasher-safe.
Key Specs
Serious Eats / Taylor Murray
The Competition
FAQs
Which is better—cast iron or enameled cast iron?
The short answer is neither—and both! To be sure, both are great non-toxic cookware. Cast iron is undoubtedly more durable and would be the better choice for cooking over an open fire or for projects where you plan to use extremely high temperatures. The seasoning on a cast iron pan can eventually become completely nonstick, whereas enameled cast iron will remain unchanged over time. Enameled cast iron is also more suited for recipes high in acid (which could damage uncoated cast iron) or for situations that would benefit from a more even distribution of heat.
Is there anything you can’t cook in an enameled cast iron skillet?
There's not much that can't be cooked in an enameled cast iron skillet. Pan pizzas, roasted chicken, and even baking recipes all work well in enameled cast iron. Super-delicate items (like crepes, for example) would benefit from a slicker, more nonstick surface than enameled cast iron.
Can you put an enameled cast iron skillet in the oven?
You can absolutely put enameled cast iron in the oven, and some pans can tolerate up to 900°F (though most max out at 500°F). Just make sure to check the manufacturer's care instructions beforehand, which should state your pan's oven-safe temperature.
Can you use enameled cast iron on an induction burner?
All of the enameled cast iron pans we tested were compatible with induction burners, as well as gas and electric. Anything made from cast iron will work with induction.
Do you have to season enameled cast iron?
No, you don't have to season enameled cast iron. Because of their enamel coating, these pans are ready to go right out of the box.
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