By Tom Burden, Last updated 6/25/2019
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Water-cooled inboard engines inject cooling water into the exhaust pipe, which cools the exhaust and muffles engine noise. The exhaust then pushes the water out the exhaust pipe. This is known as a wet exhaust system. Wet exhaust systems have the advantage of using the heat-absorbing and sound-dampening qualities of water to cool and quiet the exhaust. Air-cooled, or dry exhaust, systems are uncommon except in performance powerboats or large work boats where excessive heat buildup and/or noise are tolerable, or in precisely engineered trawler/passagemaker exhaust systems which insulate the hot exhaust pipe with forced air.
Above- and below-waterline applications require distinctly different products to muffle engine noise. Powerboats use marine mufflers, commonly made out of non-metallic materials, to contain engine noise and cool the exhaust. Mufflers are always mounted above the waterline, and usually have some sort of check valve in-line to prevent backwards water flow, which might damage the engine.
Lift mufflers like Centek Vernalifts are used both by powerboats and sailboats. They are vertical mufflers mounted below the waterline with an outlet line coming off the top of the container. Exhaust gas and expended cooling water are mixed shortly after the exhaust manifold and travel together into the muffler's chamber where the cooling water collects before the exhaust gas pressure pushes it out the remainder of the exhaust hose. The mufflers's chamber also provides a place for seawater from following seas to collect if the boat is running under sail. For greater quieting, an inline muffler can be used downstream of a lift muffler.
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For vessels with through-the-transom exhaust, there are flapper valves that prevent following seas from running back up the exhaust system and flooding the engine. They clamp around the outside diameter of an exhaust pipe to form a check valve.
Exhaust hose or tubing is used to connect the exhaust manifold to the muffler and runs from the muffler overboard. It is essential to use material which can withstand heat, oil, acids, pressure, water weight and vibration without failure. As a rule of thumb, hose runs that are longer than four times the inside diameter of the hose should use wire-reinforced exhaust hose or fiberglass exhaust tubing. Shorter lengths can use non reinforced hose. All hose connections should be made to rigid surfaces (such as tubing, pipe, or the muffler itself); hose-to-hose connections are never recommended.
Marine exhausts systems are an important and often overlooked part of a marine engine. Most vessels have a 'wet' exhaust system. Salt water is injected at the riser - the outlet for exhaust from the exhaust manifold. This mixture of exhaust gas and water is then passed through a series of bends until it exits the boat, preferably at the stern.
Exhaust gases mixed with salt water create a highly corrosive compound. This is why exhaust systems are commonly made using non-corrosive components such as nitrile rubber reinforced hose (brown - not green - stripe), galvanized steel, fiberglass or plastic. The purpose of these components, which vary in size and shape depending on the engine size and layout of the engine room, is to prevent hydraulicing of the engine. This is caused when an engine has filled with salt water which has entered via the exhaust and can cause extensive damage if left for more than two hours. Water enters the exhaust from wave action at stern and poor exhaust design. In some ocean conditions, such as a following sea, water can be forced back up the exhaust when the engine is not running. Poorly designed exhausts allow water to flow back and fill the waterlock/muffler box then up the hose into the exhaust manifold, through the exhaust valves and into the combustion chamber. With the engine full of water the engine cannot crank over as it is cannot compress water.
You will know your engine is hydrauliced if it will not turn over - generally after a long sailing period - and you have removed the starter motor and ensured it works. To remove water from inside the combustion chambers, first remove all injectors, crank engine over to blow water out, refit injectors, bleed injector lines, and start. Then leave motor running until exhaust sorted out.
Check to see that the riser is not coked up or corroded - a common problem. To check the exhaust riser remove the exhaust hose from the riser (often a difficult procedure) and look up the pipe to see if it is restricted by exhaust/salt build up. If build up is excessive the riser will have to be removed to check the engine end of the pipe. Coke can be scraped out to provide a short term fix although often the riser will have to be replaced. There are aftermarket systems which vary in quality. Make sure you fit the right design for the application.
Ensure your water-lock is low enough and big enough to hold all the water in exhaust system. Is there a gooseneck or central vertical loop in the exhaust hose at the transom exit? Is there a siphon break and is it functioning properly - no leaking valves?
Exhaust gas is poisonous and can cause sea sickness and headaches. Replace any faulty parts immediately. Use double hose clamps on each joint or, preferably, super clamps, bolt style, and exhaust cement if need be. Hot sections should be lagged with fiberglass tape to prevent burns.
Beware of asbestos lagging. Many older vessels and marine engine installations had exhaust systems that were lagged with asbestos tape and rope. Asbestos sound-proofing was also common in older boats.
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